A quick answer as I am busy packing up my truck to head to Colorado for a few weeks.
Your lens is perfect. So nothing else needed there.
No Video Mode, you can't shoot fast enough for video at night essentially. But you shoot Timelapse to simulate a video.
The Northern Lights are brighter then the normal Milky Way sky, so you will have to adjust the exposure once you are there.
You are familiar with the 500 Rule? For 17mm I would recommend a 20 sec shutter speed to keep the stars sharp, but if you zoom in to 50mm that drops to like 8 secs to keep it sharp (If I recall correctly about 50mm). That's the slowest you can shoot at night on a tripod.
So when setting your exposure, you first set the shutter speed to be no more than the Max I listed. But you should go faster, and since the Northern Lights are brighter than the MW you can shoot faster. I prefer to shoot faster. because the Northern Lights will be dancing for you. So I always shoot Wide Angle, 14 or 16mm at night. Then I also typically set my shutter speed from 2 to 5 seconds. Obviously 2 seconds really chews up your memory card, and makes processing longer as you can have thousands of photos from the night. But it will show the dancing better, and also more closely feel like video.
So anyway, you choose 2 secs or 5 secs.
Set you camera to wide up at f2.8
Then set your ISO to 800.
Take a photo, and check your histogram. You don't want it more than 1/2 from the Left, and you don't want any highlights blowing out. Which is easy as the Northern Lights can be really bright in spots. So check your histogram, and then adjust your ISO as needed.
That's the basics. No setting is hard and fast. Depending on where you set up and whether you are getting a ground layer, since it's so bright you can sometimes change your fstop to f4 or f5.6 for more DOF and a sharper ground layer. But again then adjust your ISO and or shutter speed as needed, but again make sure your histogram is less than half.
As to Single, Timelapse, or Video. I answered that kind of. No Video, it won't be that bright. I run not as a Timelapse, but with an interval. So single shots, continuously, that I then later turn into a timelapse. If you don't want to hassle with that. You could take a couple of single shots so you have those, then set your camera to Timelapse Video Mode, and let it create a timelapse video for you. Make sure you check the settings on the camera, because the Timelapse Video mode will crop your image from 24x16 to 16x9. So you will lose in the video some off the bottom and the top. So keep that in mind while framing.
So you will have to think about how you want to deal with it, I do it the harder way as I said, but I have more flexibility as I can pick any image from the night to process since each single image is saved.
Also make sure you have a Remote Release, not sure if you mentioned that.
Okay, I have to get back to packing.
