One last practice time lapse.

Ben Egbert

Forum Helper
Staff member
I had two things left to resolve when shooting time interval shots with the 5DSR. Those being flicker and dark>light scenes (sunrise or sunset). I think I have a formula that works. I have chosen intervals at 2 seconds, at least for clouds. I have .1 second for duration in Movavi. About 600 to 900 shots work pretty well. I can shot in RAW or large jpg depending on the quality of the scene.

Shooting at 1/10 second and with a fixed aperture (manual mode) with auto iso has resulted in zero flicker. The TL linked below was shot at 1/20 second and while I can see a couple small flickers, it’s probably right at the borderline for shutter speed on this camera.

For a sunrise like this is, I first set my shutter speed, and then stopped down (f8 in this case) until auto iso had selected a reasonable ISO, 400 in this case. I want the iso to drop to 100 over the course of the TL and provide a dark>light transition that does not blow out at the end or be overly dark at the start. This one is marginally bright at the very end. A very bright sunrise may have challenged this strategy, and I may have to allow a higher iso at the start.

I upload my files into a video directory. I then load these files directly into ACR and batch process them. I use spot removal for dust, but at f8 I did not see any so did not use that step. I would appreciate sharp eyes to let me know if they see any. (Alan for sure). I also used shadow recovery, saturation, clarity, haze and lens correction. I crop to 16x9. Then I save to a working folder. This takes maybe an hour.

When this step is done, I open a project in Movavi and add the contents of the working folder. I render this at .1 duration and whatever quality I like, in this case 4k.

If I have a time lapse I like (this is not one), I start another project and add titles and music to the already rendered TL. I find it easier to add this stuff to a finished time lapse because inserting frames into one in process has issues with screwing up the time line.

When done, I upload to YouTube. This one took 1:28 hours.

Once I have a time lapse, I delete the contents of the working folder. I now have just one set of originals which I will probably back up to a dedicated hard drive. I will probably delete even the originals if they did not pan out.

Comments on the Time Lapse, especially flicker and dust spots are welcome. Also please comment on my workflow and shooting strategy.

 

AlanLichty

Moderator
I am not seeing spots on this one :) I am learning what all you are doing to process TLs as you are going through these since I have never done this myself so I can't really offer much to your workflow descriptions.

Nice to see you have more snow cover now.
 

JimFox

Moderator
Staff member
Hey Ben,

I am glad you are narrowing down on what you want to do.

I do see flicker throughout the whole video though. You can see in the clouds where every second or two the clouds change exposure ever so slightly. I think you need to not have AutoISO on. I think you should be working with your R5 with Timelapse since it does have Exposure Smoothing or Anti-Flicker built in. Then maybe you could use AutoISO?

The last 20 secs of the timelapse seem too bright to me.

In Movavi, I am doing the same thing as you when compiling a Timelapse. I pull in all of the photos, change the duration down to .100 and then export it. I pull it back in then as an actual video and do my titles, transitions and music.

I also don't delete anything... :) Never have. Maybe I should start... :)

Here is a thought.... since the exposure changes a lot through a sunset or sunrise. Why not use both cameras in total manual. Start with the 5DSR and start shooting. Have your R5 set up to the exact same or very similar composition and then once you see that the light has changed a lot, start it shooting. Keep the 5DSR going for another 10 minutes or so. Then stop it, change the exposure and start it back up. Then... in Movavi use a long 10 sec transition Fade, and let the change in exposure be masked in the transition? I did that at Joshua Tree and it worked fairly well I think.
 

Ben Egbert

Forum Helper
Staff member
Hey Jim. This is a great idea and I will try it out. The R% does not have exposure smoothing that I can find, and both cameras have anti flicker which I am using.

I am sorry about the flicker still being there. I swear I don't have any at 1/10 second. The R5 does have an electronic shutter and I am using that for TL.
 

Jameel Hyder

Moderator
Staff member
The anti flicker setting in the camera has to do with light itself that cycles - some FL and LEDs do. It times the shutter such that the light cycles doesn't impact the image. This is for stills/videos esp. with studio lights. The flicker that is seen in the timelapse has to do with how the exposure is varying frame to frame. Exposure smoothing, where available, allows frame to frame exposure to remain 'smooth'. This is a time lapse concept and I don't believe either camera has it. Time lapse specific hardware like some dollyies and triggers have this. I had mentioned one which I got and played with a while ago called promote control which has a feature called exposure ramping which offered this functionality.

What is anti flicker
 

Ben Egbert

Forum Helper
Staff member
Thanks Jameel. I have seen a lot of anti flicker software, and this is tow more. I understood that the anti flicker setting on my two Canon cameras were for the effect of external lights, but I have also read that it is good to use for time lapse to. I have not found it helps however. The one thing I think that helps is to have both the shutter and aperture locked down so that they don't change, and especially use a slow shutter speed. I have not found much issue using auto iso.

I think (but not sure) that the R5 is less prone to shutter caused filcker when in electronic shutter mode. I need to run a few more tests.

In camera 5R time lapse so far is the best looking.
 

Mike Lewis

Staff Member
I also see the flicker Jim is referencing. I have started playing with LRTimelapse software. There is a trial version that can handle sequences of 400 images or less if I recall. It is designed to be used in close conjunction with Lightroom. I tried it on one of my sequences and it did manage to really handle the flicker very well. Also on the website is a very well written and comprehensive eBook that I bought that covers just about every single aspect of shooting and processing timelapses. Some of the stuff is common sense but a lot of things in there I would not have realized or known about. The author is very accomplished. He also sells a fantastic intervalometer that is more capable than those typically built into one's camera. Not to be a commercial for his site, but worth checking out I think, in particular the eBook which I think is reasonably priced and is very informative IMHO.

https://lrtimelapse.com/

ML
 

Ben Egbert

Forum Helper
Staff member
Thanks Mike, I will check it out. I have to say though, the in camera time lapse in a Canon R5 is incredibly good compared to my time interval shots. I am going to explore it some more.
 
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